There could be several reasons why your hot water isn’t working. The fix could be as simple as flipping the circuit breaker, lighting the pilot light, or more involved, such as flushing sediment from the hot water tank, replacing a faulty heating element, or addressing a leaking water issue in your water heater.
To restore hot water, the first step is to identify the issue with the water heater. Here are some DIY tips on how to troubleshoot water heater problems before deciding whether it’s time to consider a replacement. (Upgrading to a more efficient, tankless water heater can improve performance, boost energy savings, and help avoid the frustration of constantly running out of hot water.)
Keep in mind that most water heaters have a lifespan of about 8–12 years. After that, breakdowns and inefficiency become more common.
WARNING – If you smell gas (natural gas has an additive that gives it a rotten egg smell), you may have a gas leak. Leave the area immediately and call the gas company. After you shut off the gas and resolve the issue, contact a plumbing expert to repair the gas supply line or safely relight the pilot.
Check the Pilot Light
If you have a gas water heater, one of the first things to check is the pilot light. The gas supply feeds a small flame, called the pilot, that ignites the burner when the tank needs to heat water. If that flame goes out, the burner won’t activate, and you’ll have no hot water in the house.
The pilot going out is one of the most common causes of a lack of hot water.
The method for relighting the pilot light varies depending on the model of your water heater. There is usually no easy reset button, but a hot shower is only a few steps away. You can typically find the instructions on the tank. Timing and safety are crucial during this process.
WARNING: If you’re unsure how to relight your pilot light safely, please call a professional to assist you.
Generally speaking, turn the temperature setting on your heater to the lowest possible setting and then turn the gas valve off. After ten minutes, you can remove the cover from the burner assembly. How you proceed depends on whether the heater has a pilot light igniter (true of newer models) or if you need to light the pilot yourself with a long lighter to reach the ignitor.
For newer models with a pilot igniter:
- Turn the thermostat down and switch the gas valve to “Off.”
- Wait 10 minutes.
- Remove the burner access cover.
- Turn the control knob to “Pilot” and press it.
- Press and hold the igniter button per the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Once the pilot lights and stays lit, you can switch the gas valve back on.
- Replace the cover.
For older models without an igniter:
- Follow the same steps as When you move the dial to “Pilot” and press and hold the button, you will need a long match or grill lighter at the ready to ignite the light yourself.
- If the pilot doesn’t light, wait for the gas to clear before trying again.
Want to Adjust the Thermostat?
Perhaps your instinct is to raise the temperature on your heater. If so, proceed with caution. Is the thermostat set to 120 degrees? That is the typical factory setting, and it’s usually the recommended setting. Unless the temperature is below the recommended setting for some reason, it is probably not the best idea to adjust the control knob on your water heater. Before you do, consider this:
- Most water heaters are preset to 120°F, the recommended setting for safety and Raising the temperature just ten degrees can increase the risk of scalding or burn injuries.
- Water at 140°F can cause burns in just a few In less than a second, water that is at 160°F can inflict second or third-degree burns.
- Children and elderly individuals are especially vulnerable and could be harmed at even lower temperatures.
If your thermostat isn’t working properly, that could explain the lack of hot water. In electric water heaters, there are typically two thermostats: an upper and a lower. The upper thermostat controls the upper heating element and manages the power to the lower thermostat. Once the upper portion of the tank reaches the set temperature, the upper thermostat shuts off the upper element and sends power to the lower thermostat and lower element. The lower element then heats the bottom of the tank.
There are usually also high-temperature cutoff switches that either may need to be reset or replaced before the faucet stops giving anything but cold water. Either could fail, along with a faulty heating element, leading to uneven or insufficient water heating.
For gas heaters, the issue might be with the thermocouple or gas valve, either of which could need replacement. In heaters manufactured in the 1990s, a deteriorated dip tube may be the culprit, sending cold water directly to your hot water lines.
Another potential issue? Your heater may be undersized and insufficient to meet the demands placed on it. A 40-gallon tank might suffice for a couple, but it struggles to meet the needs of a growing household. If you’re consistently running out of hot water, it might be time to consider installing a bigger tank.
Check the Heating Elements
If you have an electric water heater and still have no hot water, the problem may lie in the heating elements. These elements can wear out or short-circuit over time. You can test these elements to see if they are working. You will need an element tester or multimeter, a voltage tester, plus ample experience. However, it is often better to call a plumbing professional instead if you suspect the electrical elements are the cause of the problem.
Don’t forget to check the breaker box. A blown fuse or tripped breaker can shut down your heater, stopping it from delivering hot water. If there is an issue with your breaker box, then you would need to call a qualified electrician.
To test the elements:
- Turn off the power supply to the water heater; otherwise, it will not be safe to test the elements.
- Remove the upper access panel, insulation, and plastic safety cover.
- Use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm power is off.
- Using a multimeter, test each heating element by touching both screws and checking resistance.
- If the tester doesn’t light up, it means the element is bad and needs replacement.
Inspect for Leaks and Water Damage
A leaking water heater tank or pipe can cause more than just cold showers and can lead to devastating water damage. Look for signs of moisture around the bottom of the tank, the drain valve, or connections. Even a small, slow leak can affect pressure and heating capacity over time.
A faulty pressure relief valve may also cause leaks or spray water. If you see water dripping from the pipe attached to the valve, have a professional inspect it immediately.
Troubleshoot a Cold Shower
If your shower is the only fixture affected, but other sinks or tubs produce hot water, the issue may not be the water heater at all. In this case, it’s more likely a water flow or mixing problem in the shower itself. A faulty mixing valve often causes the issue by failing to blend hot and cold water correctly, especially in older or poorly maintained showers. In some cases, mineral deposits from hard water can clog internal components, leading to poor temperature regulation. If you consistently receive cold water in the shower, even when the rest of the home has hot water, it’s time to have the shower valve professionally inspected and possibly replaced.
Is It a Whole House Problem?
If none of the faucets in your home produce hot water, it likely indicates a problem with the heater. Identifying whether it’s a whole-house failure helps narrow down the cause and rule out isolated fixture problems. Here are some of the most common water heater issues to check:
- Tripped breaker or blown fuse: This is especially common with electric water If the power supply is interrupted, the unit won’t heat water at all. Check your home’s electrical panel and reset the breaker if necessary. If it trips again, there may be a more serious electrical issue that requires the attention of an electrician.
- Pilot light outage: A frequent issue with gas water If the pilot is out, the burner can’t ignite to warm the tank. Follow the relighting instructions on the heater label. If the heater won’t stay lit, the thermocouple or gas valve may be faulty.
- Faulty heating element: Electric models usually have upper and lower elements. If either fails, you may have no hot water or inconsistent These can often be tested and replaced by a plumber or experienced DIYer.
- Sediment buildup: Over time, minerals settle at the bottom of the tank, forming a layer that reduces heat transfer and Sediment not only shortens the unit’s life but can also cause strange noises, fluctuating temperatures, or depleting hot water faster than expected. A complete flush may resolve the issue.
- Old or deteriorated dip tube: In older units, the dip tube (which directs cold water to the bottom of the tank) can break or This allows cold water to mix near the top, leading to lukewarm water at the tap or a consistent lack of hot water.
Is it Shower Valve Troubles?
If your sink faucets deliver hot water but your shower stays cold, the problem likely lies within the shower’s internal plumbing components. In most cases, the mixing valve, which blends hot and cold water, has failed or become obstructed. Here are some key signs to watch for:
- Cold water flows even when the dial is turned to This often indicates that the hot water side of the valve isn’t opening properly, possibly due to mineral buildup, corrosion, or internal failure.
- Sudden bursts of cold water mid-shower – If your shower alternates between hot and cold water without warning, the valve may be struggling to regulate temperature due to worn-out parts or inconsistent water pressure.
- Temperature won’t adjust properly – If turning the handle yields no noticeable change in temperature, the internal cartridge or balancing spool inside the valve may be stuck or damaged.
- Other fixtures work fine – This further confirms that the problem lies in the shower valve, not with the water heater, power supply, or household plumbing system.
These symptoms often mean the internal mixing valve is worn out or clogged with mineral buildup. A plumber will need to disassemble the valve, replace or clean the faulty parts, and then reassemble it to restore proper temperature control.
Are You Using Up All the Hot Water?
Consider recent usage. Sometimes, the issue isn’t mechanical at all and is especially common in busy households where multiple appliances or people use hot water in quick succession. It’s just that your water heater has temporarily run out of hot water. Understanding your water heater’s recovery time can help you determine whether the problem is truly a malfunction or simply a matter of timing.
Hot water might be depleted due to recent use
If someone in your home has recently taken a shower, run the dishwasher, or used the washing machine, your hot water supply may be temporarily depleted. Traditional water heaters can only hold and heat a limited amount of water at once, so after heavy use, the tank needs time to recover. In many cases, a lack of hot water is not a sign of a significant issue; it’s just a matter of waiting for the next batch to heat water.
Water heaters need recovery time
Traditional tank-style water heaters heat a fixed amount of water at a time, which means they can run out of hot water after heavy use. Once the hot water is depleted, it typically takes 30 minutes or more for the system to fully replenish the water, depending on the tank size and model. During colder months, the incoming water is colder, which can significantly extend the recovery time.
If you frequently experience delays between hot showers, it may be due to your system needing time to catch up, not necessarily a water heater problem. In these cases, upgrading to a larger water heater or switching to a tankless or on-demand model may provide more consistent access to hot water to meet your household’s needs.
Cold water in the shower may not signal a system issue
If you’re out of hot water only occasionally, you may not have a malfunction. It could be due to the tank size or the simultaneous use of multiple devices. This is especially common during mornings or evenings when numerous people are using hot water back-to-back. In many cases, your water heater is working correctly but simply can’t keep up with household demand. Upgrading your system or staggering usage times can help prevent sudden cold showers.
Additional Troubleshooting Tips
If your water heater still isn’t performing as expected, there are a few more components worth checking before calling in a professional.
- Check the anode rod: This metal rod attracts minerals and prevents tank corrosion. If it’s worn down, the tank may deteriorate faster and lose efficiency.
- Flush the tank: Built-up sediment reduces efficiency and can affect Draining the tank annually helps extend its life.
- Monitor water pressure: If water pressure is too high, it can stress your heater, especially the pressure relief valve, leading to leaks or early failure.
Call an Experienced Kansas City Plumber
When you’re not sure what to do when you have no hot water, or DIY fixes aren’t solving the problem, call a professional. From replacing heating elements and thermostats to fixing leaking water heaters and worn-out valves, we’re here to help.
At A-1 Sewer & Septic Service, Inc., no issue is too big or too small for our team of plumbing technicians to tackle. We’ve handled every type of water heater issue from low water pressure to complete water heater repair or replacement. Whether you’re dealing with an old electric heater, a gas model, or considering an upgrade to a tankless system, we offer expert plumbing solutions that last.
Don’t wait to resolve water heater problems. Contact A-1 Sewer & Septic today to schedule your service or request a quote. Our team provides emergency plumbing services during evenings and weekends, ensuring you never go without hot water for long.